Kiran Uttam Ghosh and Deepika Govind bring the beauty of traditional crafts and textiles into the limelight at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015


A Kiran Uttam Ghosh show is always an adventure into the world of creative fashion. Her Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015 collection was feminine, delicate with inspiring silhouettes in a gentle colour palette. Revisiting the past and inspired by the sights, sounds and fragrances that were her memories, Kiran worked with khadi, a fabric her grandmother used to spin. Working around silhouettes that showed tantalising shoulders or elegant collar ones, Kiran’s clothes spoke a simple dignified fashion language. Global shapes were blended effortlessly with beautiful hand crafted traditional textiles; while heritage played a major role in the form of embellishments that glittered discreetly on the garments.The textiles offered a multitude of options with Maheshwari, Bengal Dhakai, Chanderi, Benares brocade, kimkhab, Fulia, Taant weaves and ikat, which were perfectly balanced with modern fabrics like georgette, crépe, jersey and perma pleated ones.

The colours were a melange of ivory, oyster, nude, powder blue, fresh coral, lipstick red, blackberry, aubergine and gold.The silhouettes were very western in nature with permanent pleated dresses, trousers, plain white shirts, racer back vests, ponchos, fluted lines, slouchy tents and a collection of saris in handlooms that completed the line. Starting the show with soft pastels for draped sari with embroidered choli, Kiran moved to Maheshwari cape over blue jersey dress and then added a blue Bengal Taant tent. Moving into a stronger colour palette, the mix of blackberry and aubergine with navy was great for a floral tent. The Banaras skirt with white shirt and obi belt was an unconventional story, while the red Dhakai dress with high slits over gold pleated dress and pants were stunners. The mix of fabrics and the intriguing fusion silhouettes added to the charm and beauty of the collection.Bringing the past to the present, to create future fashion, Kiran Uttam Ghosh presented a sensuous but beautiful line for the fashion conscious buyers.

Deepika Govind‘s Journey Into The Land Of Blue Was A Fashionable Odessey At Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015Inspired by a mythical yogi’s memoirs in the land of Blue Kutch, Deepika Govind’s collection called “The Memoir of a Yogi who Loved Blue” was a fascinating colourful vision at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015.Using the attire of the beautiful women of Kutch as her ‘blueprint’, Deepika followed their silhouettes – long fluid belted dresses of the Khatri tribe. Layered weaves were embellished with handcrafted tribal ornaments; while the organic Kala Cotton formed the basis of the garments. Fine Bandhani, tie and dye, Shibori, Ajrakh, centuries old resist print craft in organic dyes, and the ancient Rogan art of hand painting that looked like fine embroidery was the final icing on the ensembles and added to the rustic rural charm of the creations. The Farek and gussets incorporated by Deepika enhanced the beauty of the collection.

With such a rich heritage backing the garments, it was but natural that Deepika’s colours were earthy and natural. Mid blue, organic kora, Rudraksh and desert brown, burgundy, mustard and mineral red dazzled on the ramp.Bandhani was used as placement design and appeared on various parts of the garments to highlight their beauty. It looked fabulous on a one- shoulder dress or a blue Bandhani cover with asymmetrical hem. Mirror work was seen prominently on yokes, long sleeve gown, bolero and the line of sarong pleated skirts with waistcoats were an innovative look at fusion wear with traditional touches.Added to the glamour of the line were the specially designed striking leather accessories by Risa and shoes by Heel and Buckle.When the 21st century fashionista wants to take a walk down folklore lane; “The Memoirs of a Yogi who Loved Blue” collection by Deepika Govind will add a new dimension and colour to her wardrobe.