It was a casual walk in a museum that inspired India’s ace couturier to create a vibrant colourful collection. Reliance Trends presented The Czar of Couture, Tarun Tahiliani’s “Past Modern” collection inspired by the work of The Singh Twins at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015.
The award winning Singh Twins’ revived the technique of miniature paintings, which Tarun translated beautifully onto digitally printed clothes. Using selective elements from different paintings to complement his creations, Tarun brought the Mughal sensibilities with a touch of contemporary, playful zest and verse onto the collection.
Giant tassels were suspended from the ceiling of the Palladium Ballroom; while brass lamps and wooden angels positioned on head ramp created an old world charm. Against the back drop of an AV featuring frames of miniature paintings and the pulsating live beat of drums by Samander Khan and his Quawwals, the wildly colourful show started.
The saris were a riot of colour with startling LED like borders that gave the traditional drape a New Age avatar. The dhoti sari and many more versions of the 6-yard wonder kept the audience enthralled.
Focusing on borders with Persian motifs that framed the garments occasionally in multiple layers, Tarun used them solo or in unison for leggings and dresses. Soon there were flowing soft silk kaftans, where the paintings were visualised in all their beauty.
Fitted gilets, dhoti and lungi skirts, jewelled Tees for evening glamour, hand painted gold kalis that were reminiscent of a Klimt painting, kedeo tops and kalidaar kurtas completed the wide fashion menu. Touches of Russian folk art were seen along with geometric patterns that emerged from sleeves, lapels and linings.
When it came to colour selection, Tarun was very generous as white led the list with black, followed by muted tones and some bold bright hues like rust, orange and red to violet dark blue. Embellishments in resham were followed by the designer’s favourite chikankari, which added to the drama of the ensembles.
Red layered midi with swatches of fabrics around it, yellow front gathered maxi, wide pleated pants, lots of loose poncho tops, a great emphasis on ornate cummerbunds, Obe belts and shorts with shirt tail tops were some of the creations. The empire line kedeo with sarong, layered tulle asymmetric gown, shaded blue, yellow, low crotch salwars, draped sari and the yellow, lace, peplum blouse over draped dhoti sari added to the glam quotient of the show.
Men’s wear included lots of wildly printed shirts, waistcoats with or without quilting; sherwani with cowl drape, a set of shaded blue/ green sherwani and waistcoat and long coats, with placement prints gave the line a very vibrantly hued appearance.
Closing the show was the very lovely Bollywood beauty, Chitrangada Singh who sashayed down the ramp in a long sleeve multicoloured blouse with a voluminous colourful layered net and printed skirt and an impressive cummerbund.
For a fashion line that will allow the wearer to stop conversation at any seasonal soirée, Tarun Tahiliani’s “Past Modern” collection presented by Reliance Trends will be the perfect choice as it offered numerous mix and match options for all seasons.